exploring the central west end neighborhood of st. louis
Ever been on vacation and in the middle of downtown, where everything happens, and wondered why is it so…blah? Is it that you’re doing very touristy things or just in the wrong neighborhood? On Settling In at Old Town, I mention the importance of venturing out of the city’s downtown in favor of characteristic neighborhoods. There, you will find life. Look for the right spot, and society is already comfortably enjoying the area. Where have you been?
This has happened to me a few times. I happened to come across great neighborhoods naturally or get advice from the locals. On a trip to St. Louis in May of 2023, I walked right into it as I had no plans in particular. Just sightseeing, more so on the residential architecture, and happened upon a main street of a nice neighborhood. This has happened to me in two separate neighborhoods in St. Louis. There are little pockets of life and excitement away from downtown.
Find comfort when downtowns have lost their touch
Finding these neighborhoods are a must if you’re visiting a city, you don’t feel comfortable in. Being in a new place is one thing but finding yourself quietly disappointed is something else. With all the changes in the past generation, city centers are not what they used to be. Commercial and corporate businesses have left major downtowns in favor of less dense and compact cities. Businesses want more space and freedom, likely in the form of lower taxes and regulations, in which smaller cities offer.
This leaves a vacancy even in the biggest cities around the country. And tourists can see and feel difference the locals are living with. One major problem is the increase of homelessness, and even entire camps, moving in as businesses moved out. Depending on the city, downtowns no longer feel as regal and comfortable as they did a generation ago. Locals cope by contributing and enjoying neighborhoods outside of the city center. Exploring neighborhoods are an absolute must if you happen upon a city like this.
Finding these pockets
When planning your trip, these neighborhoods will pop up without you realizing since they’ll have a few things to do in their area. Just a few though, and you’ll realize it’s a bit away from everything else. Those two or three interesting finds in the same area just aren’t worth going out of the way. You’ll stick to downtown and find tourist traps to fill out the day. Don’t do this. If those two or three interesting things are near great places to eat, whether restaurants, bakeries, or coffee shops, you’ve stumbled across the right place.
Look at the online consensus specifically for best neighborhoods to visit. Not things to see or do. You’ll find historical parts of town, more architecturally significant areas, best places for foodies, and general shopping areas. Take your pick, especially if one is near the other. Even though your day won’t be set in stone, it’s great to explore for sightseeing and photography.
If you’re not a planner, have one landmark in mind that’s accessible (and safe) as a target. Start walking and enjoy anything interesting. A great building, even fallen to time, is worth taking a minute. Sculptures in a city are common as well as statues. If not, you’ll likely come across a great park and beautiful gardens.
Have one landmark in mind, then explore around it – World Chess Hall of Fame
I had one goal in mind. A pit stop at the Chess Hall of Fame in the Central West End neighborhood of St. Louis. I mostly had downtown things to do as well as Forest Park, a whole different and massively popular area away from downtown. There’s a giant chess piece outside their museum and chess club. Also, a life-size outdoor chessboard with pieces. When I arrived, a pair who appeared to be strangers were playing.
The World Chess Hall of Fame was established in 1984 and offers chess exhibits, education, and a list of the hall of famers (US and internationally). It has moved throughout the country and has called St. Louis home since 2011. Across the street is the St. Louis Chess Club established in 2008.
The club itself has an eye-catching logo. This aged arch with a few sculpted details shows the beauty of the area and the city’s interest in preserving architecturally significant pieces. This arch entrance is to a chess themed diner, an example of how the community leans into popular spots and leads to more growth for the area.
The giant chess piece reminded me of the massive Louisville Slugger bat outside its museum. Yes, on the history and making of the Louisville Slugger. But that post will be for another day. Louisville has great museums and approach them very differently than most cities. Despite being smaller museums, they’re being put to great use. And I’d love for other museums to incorporate some of their actions. Look out for the upcoming post.
The circular Romanesque roofs makes me think of Victorian homes. There appears to be plans to renovate but preserve it. Despite not being in its best shape, it still prompts your attention on foot.
A mix of main street sights and older residential homes set the tone. No empty shops or sidewalks, no need to look over shoulder as you wonder where everyone went. People were out and about. This was Memorial Day weekend, sunny and warm. Large, bushy trees were bright green. Not quite Juliet balconies but loved the façade of the main street shops. It gives a small-town feel.
The city lamp posts just outside the Chess Hall of Fame were extravagant on their own. The flowers around it bumped it up a level. This lamp post likely has too many lights but a quirky feature nonetheless. In case you’re wondering, I wait out people for photography. Despite the empty pictures, I can assure you this area was lively.
Midwest Quirks: Food Edition
So busy, even the restaurant I chose to eat had a long wait. And people had no problem doing so, myself included. I waited at least 30 minutes, maybe closer to 40. I don’t usually mention restaurants but this one had a regional theme.
Now, I’m about to lose a little Midwest credibility here. I don’t really eat ranch. Like it but don’t love it. I certainly don’t have it with pizza or fries usually, but a lot of people do. My younger sister is a ranch fanatic and always dips her pizza in it. Props to St. Louis for this idea, I haven’t heard other cities doing anything similar (if so, please send names). Even with different regional food favorites.
Twisted Ranch is restaurant featuring 34 variations of ranch that’s made fresh daily. Not only does one have all those options, but their menu includes ranch flights. You can order this with fries, veggies, (tenders) and a flight of 5, 13, or all 34 ranch variations. The tray is a whole thing if you happen to order it or spot another group do so. Feels fun to explore and debate. There’s a pen and paper to mark your yays and nays. Dill Ranch was my favorite. This was a great idea for a themed restaurant in the Midwest.
Walk the architectural sights
Great neighborhoods just don’t have funs shops and restaurants. People also live in them. The homes in the Central West End are worth a few laps. Not only the homes themselves. I like seeing front lawns that have an elevation from sidewalk. Normally I’m used to a couple steps or a flight of stairs to get to the entrance.
But I like the tiers of elevation: from the public sidewalk to the lawn then another tier to enter the front door. Some people make the landscaping incredibly interesting by alternating plant life (usually flowers) with pebbles and stones or bricks. Something like below. Often, more flowers are incorporated, but different kinds of plants or ornamental grass is much more eco-friendly. The house above seemingly has a circular entryway under the overhang.
Love seeing the large homes. This kind of size is more luxury these days than perhaps slightly above standard from years past. It’s interesting, more so slightly depressing. Seeing what was considered middle class homes a few generations ago now being upper middle class. Less bang for your buck. Even similar size homes were common for working class families just in a different part of town.
Take note of things outside architecture
Most of these homes have porches. I love seeing the house (second to the left) have more of a stoop, but still has a spot to sit and enjoy their residential street. It’s a great sign of a neighborhood for sitting areas in front of the home. Makes me think of parents enjoying their coffee on the porch and watching their children ride their bicycles on the sidewalks. That same house also has stone planters at the base of their sidewalks. I grew up with that. It’s a shame it’s not more popular. It encourages lovely flowers to planted and in something other than plastic. I’d invest in this as a homeowner.
I like seeing lawns a grade higher than the sidewalk. It’s more characteristic of an area, not cookie cutter. Despite being completely accessible to the public, there’s a greater sense of privacy. Although not included too much in these photos, the trees are large and healthy with even more greenery added. Older neighborhoods always look like this. I hate seeing trees cleared off to start new again, in a strategic move to make things uniform.
The only con, large trees provide plenty of shade on the sidewalk. The sunlight is still getting into the homes, but this sunny day looks dark from the ground. Note this row of homes all feature columns, one right after the other. And there’s a bay window on the second level of the middle home, which is unusual. It’s probably in a bedroom, although I wonder if it’s a studio or hobby room. Had there been a third level, I would love to see a bay window on the landing.
an architectural detail triggers childhood memories
My childhood home was a two flat (characteristically Chicagoan) but very high. Each floor being its own apartment. There were three flights of stairs, two being long and one slightly curved. On the landing there was a tall, arched window that always made me think of church. I grew up on the second floor and liked to look out the arched window, overlooking my street. Keep in mind, my family was blue-collar and proudly union. My father was the sole provider my entire childhood as my mother raised us. Our home was not in the best part of town. These days a home like that, still not a great neighborhood, is not accessible on a middle-class salary. What a shame.
That bay window on the second level reminded me of that arched window. Seeing this old neighborhood, although different from my own, is a great part of sightseeing architecture. Yes, there are beautiful giant homes. Or quirky, stylish buildings. But you can’t help but imagine the people living inside those homes. And wonder about the lives they lead as you take note of how they choose to landscape and decorate. Do they enjoy gardening? If so, likely a homebody. Do they keep their lawn low maintenance? Likely busy people, whether with work or living life. Perhaps travelers. Is that doorway typical or do they choose to standout? Any outlandishly painted houses? Or even more shocking, plain black?
Upon approaching this building, I’m slightly confused. Is it a home or something else? I’m having trouble identifying it online. The dormers, vertical windows projecting from a slanted roof, are arched. Our favorite pop of color in several cities, mint, can be seen accentuating the arched window.
There’s an unusual, sculpted detail on the dormer itself. One side of the house is rounded, so the interior of those rooms must be beautiful. It’s such an unusual and likely impractical shape of a home. There’s got to be some aesthetic use to those rooms. People don’t build those shapes for nothing. The stone entryway has sculpted details on top and even a border trim down the sides. I don’t have a second picture, so I likely was in a hurry. Or worse, my companion was over the sightseeing and picture taking. Officially investigating more and will find this building again the next time I go to St. Louis.
A quick peek at forest park in st. louis, mo
Central West End is near Forest Park, a popular area in St. Louis and away from downtown. You’ll see it in an upcoming feature. I can already spot two totally different buildings, each deserving their own mention, but I’ll explore than on the upcoming post. You can get a little sneak peek. I love seeing unique buildings in the background. Still commanding attention from a distance and surely piquing everyone’s curiosity.
Take this as your cue to explore neighborhoods on your next trip. Get out of downtown and see how the locals live, eat, and enjoy their communities. It’ll keep you away from tourist traps and you’ll probably save a buck or two as you enjoy more sightseeing. Until next time.
