Taking a Few Extra Steps Can Lead You to a Piece of Local History
The Art Institute of Chicago is one of the city’s most prized possessions. For all of the art that is preserved in its building as well as the late 19th century building itself. The lions outside the entrance on top of the stairs are iconic. But have you ever taken a walk around the building? I accidentally came to discover walking the perimeter has a few treasures to be seen. Mostly in the form of a simple arch I was going to pass right by. However, going out of my way to peek behind, I discovered a piece of local history.
This is an art museum after all, and it will make full use of its space in the name of art.
History & Architectural Style of the Art Institute of Chicago
The Art Institute of Chicago was originally founded as both a museum and a fine arts school in 1879. As Chicago was going to host the World’s Columbian Exposition in 1893, the Art Institute worked with the city to create a building for the fair that would be home to the Art Institute after. This would be the building known today. But it wasn’t until December 1893 that it opened its doors as officially as the Art Institute of Chicago.
The building is in the architectural style of Beaux-Arts, which is defined by heavy use of sculptures for decoration. Other characteristics include a flat roof, symmetry, columns, and a raised first story. Interior characteristics include grand entryways and staircases, arched windows and doors, murals, and other artwork on the building itself. It’s a combination of Roman, Greek, and European influences.
Art Institute Quick Tips for Visitors
Even though the 1894 lions (yes, really) at the entrance are must for a first-time visitor, the lines at the main front entrance can be a bit of a drag. I suggest you head over and take all the pictures. But if you notice a huge line, sneak off to the side entrance at the Modern Wing on Monroe Street. The museum itself encourages this for a little to no-wait option. I only enter through this entrance and never had to wait in line, it’s a quick walk through. Even on free museum days.
Plus, you get more bang for your buck if you visit the museum on Thursdays with its extended hours until 8pm. Entering through the Modern Wing leads you straight to the Roman and Greek Sculptures, an absolute must. Free daily tours are at 1pm and 3pm but check the website because these tours visit different exhibits.
A Plain Arch or So I Thought
On a visit to the museum, I was coming from Maggie Daley Park and stopped across the street. In between traffic I could get a clear shot of the Modern Wing in its entirety. This was early November 2023, just past fall and these yellow trees caught my attention. Bright yellow foliage peeking from behind a plain stone arch on the corner of the museum property. I didn’t think much of it at first, but the sunlight was hitting the foliage. Since it was behind the arch, there was a shift from shade to sunlight that I couldn’t ignore. The arch itself was simple and in the shade, yet the sunlight hitting these small trees made it stand out more.
I zeroed in after taking a few photos across the street. Then moved closer and snapped a few, front and center. Some focused just on the trees themselves through the arch. In other shots, I incorporated the arch as the focus. Few more pictures with a bit more foreground on the grass. The yellow foliage hit by the sun was in the distance, but something kept drawing me in.
Given I was there to visit the museum, I was going to call it a day and head inside. Tired from walking all day and in the cold. The museum was meant to be my warmth haven. But I thought, might as well see. I was expecting another shot through the arch from the other side and nothing more. This wasn’t a popular area since we’re right next to a massive intersection with multiple lanes and heading down Columbus Drive didn’t lead to much. Everyone in the area was heading to the museum or Michigan Avenue. Even if people noticed the arch, they looked as they passed by. It’s just a simple stone arch and a couple of trees in the distance. A cute view but nothing more.
The Big Reveal – What’s Behind the Arch?
Imagine my surprise when this plain old arch was in fact the arch of the old Chicago Stock Exchange Building built in 1893. It has a concentric arch, as in multiple layers of arches in the middle. It’s decorated with swirly filigree all over and geometric shapes. The top edge has a detailed trim of little squares. More than anything, decoration gives it age away since the style today is more minimalist. A little discoloration due to age and exposure. Overall, it was in pretty good shape.
Chicago Stock Exchange Building History
The Chicago Stock Exchange building was built in 1893 and designed by Louis Henri Sullivan and Dankmar Adler. The 13-story building stood until 1972, in which it was decided to be demolished. At the time, locals were trying to save the building but were defeated. Demolition allowed new buildings to be constructed. The Art Institute was able to save the arch and other pieces original to the building. In fact, the Art Institute has an exhibit inside that is the reconstruction of the Trading Room. It even features original stencils used on the building and art glass.
I almost wanted to reach out to people as they walked by to come over and see the real view. A piece of local history right there on a patch of grass. There’s something pleasant in seeing the aged arch with the earth growing around it. Surviving, no matter the conditions. Seeing it up close and knowing people didn’t get to do this in its glory days made it extra special.
A wonderful surprise, a reward even, for taking the time to look back here.
Meaning Behind the Years on the Arch
The corners read 1893 on the top right for the year it was built. And 1837 on the top left corner, in reference to the Peck House, which sat on what would later be the site of the original Chicago Stock Exchange Building. The Peck House was built in 1837 and later turned into a police station. The image of the Peck House can be seen under the year on the arch. In 1868, it was demolished to make way for the Union Building that would get burned down in the Chicago Fire in 1871. The Chicago Stock Exchange Building was built thereafter.
I couldn’t believe the art museum would have anything of major value outside. It made sense an art museum is going to make sure to use all its space. What else had I been missing? Despite the cold, I was inspired to walk further down the perimeter to see if there were any other surprises.
A Sitting Area Outside the Modern Wing
I ran into the yellow trees that piqued my curiosity in the first place. Despite being early November, parts of the trees were still a light green. The blazing yellow in the foliage was a showstopper for sure and worked well with the modern wing architecture. This is a sitting area outside the museum with a few stone benches around in case you need a break. It’s a nice little space to relax and admire the building. Keep in mind, the Modern Wing is at its peak whenlit at night.
In case the photos don’t do this peaceful area justice, here’s a short clip of the area.
City Reflecting Nature – Glass Wall Exterior of the Museum
Further down, I was surprised the building began incorporating a glass mirror exterior. I wished I came more into fall to get more of the changed foliage in the pictures. This was a great idea seeing the reflection of the nature around the building on the building itself. A bit further down, an entire wall of mirror lined the building.
I went down to the corner to catch a full of wall of autumn trees, and the yellow leaves on the ground gave a nice touch. Despite being downtown, we could see some nature mixed in with the city architecture at the Art Institute. Winter view of this location is officially on my list.
Photography Lesson Learned: Walk the Around the Building
A wonderful surprise led me to set a new reminder for myself when visiting places: walk the perimeter for any surprises or lesser-known views. I can’t imagine many people do this when visiting. But imagine what you’re potentially missing. Another example would be on my previous post on the Canal St. Bridge. I intended to get a shot within a park but found a better view walking around on a different bridge. Which led to even better views of the Chicago skyline unexpectedly. All of which I found by simply walking around to get an idea of what’s around. Versus finding a great spot to shoot from a list on the internet and doing nothing more.
Think about it, when people are building a significant piece of architecture, the focus isn’t just on the front. There will be sculpted details and engravings on all sides. Symmetry, lines, architectural characteristics don’t stop on the front and sides. If the area is safe and accessible to the public, I highly suggest walking around the building. Especially if it’s one you can easily return to avoid missing out on the great exhibits inside the building.
My experience has taught me most people don’t go the extra mile. So if you’ve got time to spare, take a quick walk around the building. There might be details or sights everyone else is missing out on. Even if something turns out to be a waste of time, that happens once. but if you run into something absolutely amazing, that photograph is forever. It’s one of the reasons i go against “living in the moment” and take pictures. I wrote about it on my first post, when a mental picture just won’t do. This exact experience is briefly mentioned in that post since what i found unexpectedly made me change how i go sightseeing. Because even a simple arch may not be so after all.
