When the Viewpoint is Itself Part of the Sights
Returning from a trip to Quebec last week, I excitedly rushed to my laptop to sort through the photos. Yes, living in the moment is important while traveling. But the best souvenirs (at times) are the photos you took. Not only is a place frozen in time but so are you. For autumn, I visited Montreal and Quebec City for a peek of color (and a slight chill!). But the first thing I wanted to write about was one of my favorite places. This is not only a sight itself, with a massive historical landmark, but offers the sights in the form of stunning views! Take a stroll with me on Dufferin Terrace in Quebec City.
Staying Surprisingly Close to Dufferin Terrace: A Little Mystery
The terrace, you’re making a post on a terrace? I can hear people say as I write. But yes, and if you take a look below…you’ll see why. I took a risk and booked a hotel room right behind the historical landmark Chateau Frontenac. Risky because it was super affordable and a stone’s throw from a park (which at night typically don’t have the best reputation, at least in the US). The hotel room had lots of space with two queen beds. I booked it thinking, I’ll find out why later.
A tiny street separates the hotel from the Parc des Gouverneurs (Governor’s Park or Promenade). Take a 30 second walk, and down a few steps, and you’re suddenly on Dufferin Terrace. The reason I’m mentioning the hotel, being so close to Dufferin Terrace (and Chateau Frontenac), I was able to see it every morning and night during my trip. It gave me the opportunity to get the sights of the terrace itself, the historical hotel, and the stunning views from the terrace.
Despite Canada being incredibly safe, especially compared to the US, one always wonders how early is too early for morning pictures? Luckily, I visited in October so there was a later sunrise. I was able to venture out at 7am, feeling confident about the area. 15 minutes later, I spotted a patrol officer walking the area similar to Washington, DC. Joggers, people walking their commute, and park workers had already been walking in the area.
Chateau Frontenac – A Historical Landmark
It would be impossible to start without mentioning the elephant in the room aka Chateau Frontenac. If going by appearances, I would describe the building as essentially…a castle (or Hogwarts). This massive historical landmark is said to be called, “The most photographed hotel in the world.” Weirdly enough, as stunning as it is up close, it may be more stunning from afar. Quebec City is situated on hill, so looking at Chateau Frontenac from afar allows for Canada’s beautiful, lush trees and colorful city streets to also frame the building.
Opened in 1893, this 18-floor hotel reaches an impressive 262 feet (nearly 80 meters high for the rest of the world!). It was designed by Bruce Price with the concept having “châteaunesque” elements and being a way to promote luxurious train travel. I’ll be doing a full post on the building itself later. But wanted to give you an idea of how massive and luxurious this building truly is.
Coming from flat-as-a-pancake Illinois, in which I can see the Chicago skyline from different parts of the city and even some suburbs on a clear day, this was certainly exciting. Not as much fun to walk around, but the sights are quite motivating. It overlooks the beautiful St. Lawrence River.
Originally planned for sunrise pictures of the hotel, but the terrace itself, streets below (Basse Ville/Lower Town), St. Lawrence River, the town across the river and the mountains in the distance were so distracting. I had a hard time figuring out what to focus on. I’ll be writing another post on simply the views from Dufferin Terrace since there’s so much to look at.
Dufferin Terrace: History-on-the-Go
An interesting note, Dufferin Terrace was built in 1879, before Chateau Frontenac. It was built over the ruins of a previous, older chateau important to the area for nearly 200 years. It’s named after the Governor that implemented its creation, which also had the goal of preserving and showcasing the natural beauty of the area overlooking the St. Lawrence River.
And it absolutely worked, the view is astonishing from Dufferin Terrace.
Nostalgic Charm for Days
I also can’t believe how charming everything is on the terrace itself. I’m talking about the old-school streetlamps with multiple round lights. The green railing with an open pattern so you can see the city below and green benches to match. Funnily enough, the benches were facing in different directions for those wanting the views of the river (and beyond) and for those looking at the terrace itself. The railing didn’t deter from the sights, I even spent a bit of time on photographing it!
There are six gazebos, each with their own name, on the terrace. They have green and white stripes with a Canadian flag plopped on top. Which I found surprising, since the blue and white Quebec Flag was all over the place. Far more than the Canadian Flag.
A local in Montreal mentioned that in Quebec City only government buildings would have a Canadian Flag since the people of Quebec are very proud of their history and culture. He mentioned, imagine how strong the cultural pride is that the Québécois(e) or in English, the Quebecers, still hold onto the French language even as they were under, and outlasted, British rule. The Québécois(e) consider the province of Quebec to be culturally and regionally distinct from the rest of Canada.
After looking into it, Dufferin Terrace is owned by Parks Canada, a federal agency of the Canadian government. Hence the Canadian Flags. But, back to the gazebos…
It gave a nostalgic look, and each gazebo provides a little shelter so you can still enjoy the views in less desirable weather. The stripes of the gazebos, the river, and wooden floors of the terrace gave the area a “boardwalk” vibe.
Thankfully, there were pops of color on some of the foliage, which made October a great time to visit. I highly recommend you take some time to sit and enjoy the view every direction. It’s peaceful, simple, and elegant.
The Funicular in Quebec City: When Skipping the Stairs Are An Option
It’s even a great resting spot if you’re enjoying the shopping and sightseeing in Old Quebec. The funicular leads directly onto Dufferin Terrace after a short climbing of steps to get onto the terrace. What is a funicular you might ask? Despite Quebec City being situated on a hill, you can skip the steps if you head to the funicular. It looks like a large elevator with full-length windows that joins upper and lower town in Quebec City. To me, it’s an elevator that moves like an escalator. Be sure to enjoy your view of the city by facing opposite the doors.
It’s very slow and easy going. My travel companion has a fear of heights (including getting dizzy looking up at skyscrapers from the ground) and vertigo but none of that triggered. It cost $3 per person and they even had a few drink and snack options inside.
History at Every Corner
Back on the terrace, you can enjoy sights of the park and picturesque architecture nearby. Note the brick walls, following this end of terrace will lead to the Citadelle of Quebec City if you climb the stairs. Quebec City is a fortified city, as in walls surround Old Quebec. But that’ll be a different post.
You could also get a little history in with the monument of Wolfe-Montecalm located in the nearby Parc Des Gouverneurs. It’s in tribute to the generals that died at the Battle of the Plains Abraham in 1759. The monument was erected in 1828, making it the oldest in Quebec City.
Beside the monument, there are four cannons (despite my images having 3 for aesthetics). If you wait long enough, you will find children climbing and sitting on the cannons themselves. And parents taking pictures. These cannons were from 1799 and Russian-made but taken as trophies from the British. They were sent to Quebec City when it was under British control between the 18th and 19th century.
Walking down the terrace along St. Lawrence River, you can spot the Port of Quebec City down below. There were massive cruise ships amongst other boats. Of course, I love seeing the lower town below which were just as beautiful with city lights at night.
Samuel De Champlain Monument: Founder of Quebec
At the other side of the terrace, you can find the monument of Samuel De Champlain, the founder of Quebec back in 1608, which marked the first French settlement in North America. He was a French explorer that traveled through the West Indies and eventually founded Quebec and mapped the region of the Great Lakes through 1615.
Of course, “discovered” isn’t quite accurate as there were already several different indigenous peoples native to this land, including the Algonguin (Anishinaabeg), Innu (Montognais), Iroquoians, and Huron-Wendat. Apparently, Champlain had formed alliances with the Algonguins and the Huron but opposed the Iroquoians.
The monument was made in 1898, an important memorial in Quebec history. Near that monument is the old post office. The white building with a clock on all sides provides a sturdy balance to the monument. I like how the statue of Champlain looks like this cloak is swept up in the wind, which happened to be blowing as you can tell with the Canadian flags (albeit in the opposite direction). It’s a beautiful statue with trumpets at the base.
Secrets Below Dufferin Terrace?
It’s in this area at night that I’d hear local musicians playing. Always a relaxed atmosphere, I wished I visited it more throughout the day since I only saw the terrace early morning and at night. There are also little treats I’ll leave people to find if they ever visit. If you notice in the images, there are a few plastic boxes on certain spots on the terrace in which you can take a peek. Also works at night, since below has a bit of lighting.
Dufferin Terrace is such a treat and great spot to relax and take in all sorts of sights!
Best of all, I never had a single problem at my little hotel behind Chateau Frontenac. Even when I realized my room would be on the ground level and my window faced directly onto the sidewalk. A bit of a fear factor for anyone but I slept here two nights. The rowdiest it got were a group of people being a bit loud in the night as they walked on by. No creepers, no one knocking at the window, or anything unsafe.
The mystery remains, although I have my suspicions that all those great “deals” on a day trip to Quebec City from Montreal might have something to do with it. But those giant, two-decker buses riding through the tight, hilly streets of Old Quebec are for another day.
